Surprising Sorrento

Sorrento lies at one end of the Bay of Naples - opposite of the giant city of Naples. Mt. Vesuvius is sort of in the middle of the crescent-shaped bay. We are in our 2nd night in the lovely Hotel Astoria, which is a far cry from our hostel (or hovel, as some family said) of tomorrow night.

The Lonely Planet guidebook (backpackers travel guide) does not favor Sorrento. But our Yuma Youth Choir guide Flavio did. And he was right. There are the narrow, cobblestone streets, the street performers, the great cafes, the flags, the lights, the people, the chiante, the gelato and the granata to please any traveller.

Thursday we had wakeup call at 5:30, breakfast at 6:30 and boarded the bus for Pompeii (with our packs) by 7:15. Our guide for Pompeii was amazing. first, she was in a red dress with a red sun hat, so we could find her in the big crowds. Second, she was funny. Third, totally well-informed. the guide industry in Italy is well-regulated. You have to be certified as an expert in an area to guide. She was.

We spent almost 2 hours with the chior in Pompeii. The exhibit in San Diego had more explanations, and personal artifacts, but walking around the town gave a totally different feeling. People decorated their sidewalks. They had steep sidewalks so the sewage could run down hill and people could walk out of it. They collected urine to soften the wool (and to soften ladies hair). they had sliding wooden pocket doors for large stores. They had like 7 brothels, and the one we toured had frescoes over each door describing what you could have done in each room. Yikes!

We had a bus tour of downtown Naples, and I was totally charmed. We stopped to tour the atrium (thereàs a better word for this) and for a cafe professor (cappuciino with hazelnut cream). We sadly left the choir group, hailed a cab to the train station and negiotiated signs, kiosks, and ticket agents for 30 minutes to discover where to buy a train ticket to Sorrento (good-bye, pre-arranged tour!). Our train ride was the equivalent of $10 total (for 3) around the bay to Sorrento. About one hour. I almost died as we sat down- it was crowded, adn I was trying to sit by Mary, with my pack on my back, and the train came shooting out of the station and took an immediate left bank that thru me into the window. I nearly snapped my neck and crushed my 9 year old. The Italians around me watched, slightly amused. I think Michael was taking pictures out the other window. Mary thought it was a stunt.

Today, we walked around Sorrento, took a ferry to Capri for the afternoon. I think we walked 6 kilometers today, half of it straight up hill. Saw two amazing gardens, and the famous coast where they shot most of Mama Mia! Did I mention we ate gelato? Then, we barely made it back to the Capri main port (Marina Grande) for the last ferry of the evening (6:30p) and found out we were in line for the wrong one, and had to run out on the dock to catch the right one. But we made it. The story of my life. Late, and then in the wrong line. Sorry Cynthia. Sorry Dad. But I'm sure Laurel's done that!

Back in Sorrento, lovin' our fancy balcony room, over a very quaint, very active square, with musical quartets, an amazing vocalist, shoppers and cafe tables.

Tonight at dinner, ate: homemade pasta noodles with clams and mussels, cannelloni with ricotta, spinach and local sausage, and linguini with creme sauce and zucchini. And, melon, prosciutto and mozarella salad. Did I menion chiante, lemocello and gelato? Good. Well, I did, again.

tomorrow: Boat cruise down the Amalfi coast, a hostel in Agropoli, the ruins of Pasteum, and hopefully some beach time. Or else Mary's trading us in on better parents.